FAQ r1.6
Settings
1. How do I decide on the best setting?
What we call the "best"
setting is the one where you can ride for hours and the chain has stable
lubrication
This means it does not change
in appearance as you ride (get wetter or dryer)
Under normal dry
conditions (no excessive sand or dust), you should aim to leave the PRO-OILER
continuously on setting 3
Why's that? Here's a
couple of examples...
·
If you see that 1
looks right in normal conditions, then you have no room to lean
off the oil delivery (for example, after it has rained and you've soaked the
chain). Your only choices are then OFF... or richer.
This isn't a critical problem, just an inconvenience.
·
But if 1
is too rich, then you have a problem. There's no choice but to
move to a "leaner" table because no setting in the
currently selected table is lean enough for you.
-
This could happen if you run a narrower chain (525 or
520) on a setting intended for a bigger section chain.
-
In this case you would want to select a leaner table to
get yourself to setting 3 as your
"normal" setting.
To see what your current table
is:
Turn on the ignition, and the
following info is displayed in sequence
-
Pro-Oiler message
-
Main version nr (02)
-
Sub version nr (07)
-
Currently selected Calibration Mode table (eg 09s)
-
Display ends up on current setting (eg 3.)
Tables allow us to compensate
for different wheel diameters and chain-sizes.
We need to compensate
because:
-
A typical 530 size big-bike chain needs more oil than a
525, which in turn needs more oil than a 520
-
The length of your chain has a direct impact on how much
oil it needs
-
The diameter of your wheel also has direct effect
Every bike has a
particular combination of chain size, chain length and wheel diameter. So you
need to select a table that allows you to get to setting 3
as your "normal", day-in day-out setting.
PRO-OILER can advise you
on the best starting point for your particular bike
2. How do I know when my chain is properly lubricated?
The best lubrication is
an oil bath. But we don't want an oil bath!
We only want sufficient
lubrication
The chain must always
have enough lubrication to prevent metal-to-metal contact between the pins and
rollers, and prevent the o-rings from overheating and degrading.
Running
too lean and dry will quickly damage the chain
If you are not sure you
can stay in the "sweet spot", then the advice is clear:
Play safe! If
in doubt, run a richer setting to be sure
But beyond a certain
point, any extra lubricant just gets thrown off the chain (fling-off).
There's no benefit in
running such a rich setting. On the other hand, an over-rich setting will do no
harm other than excessive fling-off.
If there is a choice
between too much or too little lubrication, just play safe!
3. My chain is over-lubricated. What do I do now?
If the chain is soaked
and you see there is excessive fling-off
·
Maybe your normal setting is too rich for normal running
-
Select a leaner setting - or move to a
leaner table
·
Maybe you have just ridden in the rain, or in dusty
conditions, so you turned up the delivery temporarily and simply forgot to turn
the delivery down when conditions got back to normal.
-
The safest way is to select 1
-
The quickest way is to select --
(OFF)
If
you turn the delivery OFF, there is a risk you may not get back to your normal
setting before the chain runs dry
Check your chain's
condition after a few kms, and return to your normal setting when the chain has
dried off.
Running
too lean and dry will quickly damage the chain.
Do not forget to
re-select your normal setting!
4. My chain has gone dry. What do I do now?
If your chain is too dry,
then you need more lubrication
·
Maybe your normal setting is just too lean
for normal running
-
Select a richer setting - or move to a
richer table
·
Maybe you have just ridden in the rain, or in dusty
conditions, and need to temporarily increase your oil delivery
If
you are unsure why your chain has gone dry, you should
-
Check that there is a signal from the reed
switch
-
Check that the pump is functioning
Go
to Troubleshooting for further information
Whatever happens, you
need to get your chain to "normal" - urgently!
·
You can run Prime a few times
-
How many times depends on how dry your chain has become
and the chain size/length. After a while with your PRO-OILER you will get a
feel for it.
-
[see Priming]
·
You can run on maximum setting 12
for a while
-
From fully dry to fully wet
you should need no more than 15km/10mi before turning the flow back down to
your "normal" 3 setting
Don't forget to turn the
flow back down - this setting can create a mess with a lot of fling-off!
5. It's started to rain. What setting should I choose?
How wet is wet?
You could live till you're 100, and
still learn something new every time you ride in the wet...
So, the basic guidelines for running
in the wet are:
Turn up the oil delivery as soon as
the road becomes wet
·
If your chain is currently nicely lubricated, the water will start
to wash the chain
-
You may not be able to see this actually happening. Why?
-
The oil does not wash off instantly - it can take a little while for this
to happen.
-
You may stop after 20km and see the chain still looks ok.
But in fact,
some of the oil has washed off (how much depends on the circumstances)
Suddenly, all the oil
is gone, and your chain is now suffering. The change from sufficiently lubed to
dried out can happen in a flash, and is nearly impossible to predict.
Turning up
the delivery immediately is the best way to ensure proper lubing
in these circumstances
·
Watch the spray coming up from the tyres of the vehicles in front of you.
This gives you the best idea of how much your chain is being
washed. It's not how hard it's raining, but the amount of water, and the
type of road surface that counts.
·
When the roads dry out, check the chain to see whether it's been over- or
under-oiled. Adjust the flow accordingly to get your chain to its normal
condition
·
Play safe. It's far better to run too rich and
have to lean off the delivery after the wet roads dry out. The worst that can
happen is the bike gets a bit dirtier - and if it's been wet, the bike's
getting dirty anyway!
Other tips:
·
Take a little time to look at the settings table you are running.
·
You can see how the oil delivery rises very rapidly as you get to the
rich end of the scale.
Don't be afraid to turn up the
delivery a lot even in slightly wet conditions. Your bike will get dirty
anyway, so just protect your chain!